Please note changes to the 2013 Rules. Please read carefully. If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection, absolutely no refunds!!! All rules will be followed or you will not run! If it does not say it in the rules – don’t just assume you can do it. CALL FIRST!!!!
- THUNDER VALLEY HAS THE RIGHT TO REFUSE ANY ENTRY AND SPECTATOR ADMITTANCE.
- All cars should be signed in two hours before race time and inspected one hour before race time. Late fee will apply, drivers $100 and riders $40. This is to ensure the race starts on time.
- Top five in feature must actively compete at end, no driving yourself on barriers or dirt berms. Failure to comply could result in complete restart with all feature qualifiers actively competing again.
- No reinforcements allowed other than specified below. Any metal added to reinforce the car is illegal.
- 5. NO PAINTING, UNDERCOATING, OILING OR GREASING OF FRAMES. YOU WILL NOT BE INSPECTED. YOU WILL BE LOADED.
- NO HITTING IN DRIVERS DOOR, but no using driver door as a shield. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified. This will be at the judges’ discretion.
- NO hot-rodding in the pits! Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door or second fire will cause disqualification. If in a heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. In the feature, you will be disqualified.
- You must make AGGRESSIVE contact every 60 seconds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- IF YOU THINK SOMEONE IS SANDBAGGING, HIT THEIR CAR WITH YOUR CAR ON THE TRACK.
- Winning cars plus three out of the money must remain on track until released by officials, or will not be paid prize money.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. Cars found illegal will be striped of all prize money for that event.
- Any questions or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting.
- YOU MUST HAVE AT LEAST A 15” X 15” ROOF SIGN WITH YOUR CAR NUMBER ON IT.
- An entry fee of $35 will be charged for each car entered. $25 for passenger. Fees must be paid prior to inspection. NO REFUNDS WILL BE MADE DUE TO FAILURE TO MEET REGULATIONS!
- All drivers must pick up trophies and earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit. They will not be available after that date.
- All persons MUST sign entry form, insurance waiver, release form, pay entry fees, and purchase pit pass before entering pit area.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- No harassing of the judges will be allowed at any time by drivers, passengers, crewmembers or spectators. Failure to abide by this rule, the driver will forfeit all money and all involved will be escorted from premises.
- All drivers & Riders MUST be 18 years or older. MUST be able to provide proof of age at the request of officials. Persons under 18 years old MUST have parents or guardian sign minor waiver and release form. NO EXCEPTIONS.
AUTOMOBILE BODY REGULATIONS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Passenger cars or station wagons only. No trucks, jeeps, hearses, or limousines. NO CHRYSLER IMPERIALS 73 & OLDER AND NO IMPERIAL SUB-FRAMES. NO 61 – 69 SUICIDE LINCOLNS. Cars previously run in Demolition Derby may install new front clip. Any clip may be used on any car, MUST be installed in stock manner. Officials MUST approve installation.
- All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before reaching racetrack. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
- Rear seat of sedan must be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to floorboards. All cars must be swept clean, both drivers compartment and trunk. No spare tires, broken glass, or trash, etc., allowed in cars.
- Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY!!
- You can carry a fire extinguisher, but it must be mounted securely and free of movement.
- Battery may be moved, but must be securely fastened and covered in passenger compartment. MAXIMUM OF TWO AUTOMOBILE TYPE BATTERIES ALLOWED.
- Any type automotive radiator may be used but must be mounted in stock position. NO RESERVE TANKS. One electric fan may be used.
- Fenders may be bolted together with 3/8 inch bolts or smaller with 3/8 inch or smaller washers only. A maximum of 10 bolts per fender.
- All doors may be welded (Outside of body only), chained or wired. Straps should not be larger than ¼” thick or 4 inches wide on door shell and 2 inches wide on window frame. You may beat top of doors down and may tack them in three places with a maximum of 1” weld each. No extra metal added.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.
- Patching floorboards, if you have to patch rusty floorboards you must cut out all the rust, overlap no more than 1” with same thickness as body material and sheet metal screws – no more than one every 4”. No Welding to floorboards or firewall.
- You may crease and fold body panels but do not weld. No extra metal may be added.
- NO OTHER BODY WELDS OTHER THAN WHAT IS LISTED ABOVE.
HOODS, TRUNKS, AND BODY BOLTS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of carburetor – Not directly on top of carburetor. IF HOOD IS REMOVED, EITHER FAN BLADE MUST BE REMOVED OR FAN BELT MUST BE CUT.
- On all cars, hoods, trunks, and tailgates may be secured with the following method: on front of car, two pieces of 1 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads MUST be mounted outboard of the radiator. In addition to all threads, six (6) 1 inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, or you may use angle iron back to back with a bolt through it. Angle iron cannot be more than 3/16 thick or longer than 6 inches. Three on each side of car, a total of six. Total of 6 bolts holding the hood down and any amount of wire or cable. All wire, or cable MUST be mounted outboard of radiator. A maximum of 50 bolts 3/8 inch or smaller are allowed to bolt together hood seams. On deck lid of car, two pieces of 1 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads may be mounted through deck lid and frame anywhere in trunk, cannot be welded to the frame. In addition to all threads, you may weld trunk 5 on 5 off, Straps should not be larger than ¼” thick or 2 inches wide or six (6) 1 inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, and any amount of wire or cable. If trunk is welded must have a 12” hole in trunk lid. On station wagons two pieces of 1 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads may be used in the rear through roof and stock body mount replacing existing bolt. In addition to all threads, you may weld tailgate 5 on 5 off, Straps should not be larger than ¼” thick or 2 inches wide or six (6) 1-inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, and any amount of wire or cable. YOU CAN WELD WASHERS (no bigger than 5/8 washer and must be at least 12” apart) TO THE BODY TO RUN WIRE THROUGH.
- All other body mount bolts EXCEPT FULL FRAME MINI’S may be replaced with 1 inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick. Do not take them out and place body on frame. If replaced, a gap of 1” minimum is mandatory between body and frame. You may replace with a stack of washers, or one piece of anything solid, as long as it is about the same diameter as the factory bushing. Do NOT crush factory body bushings. Front body mount bolts inside passenger compartment must be removed for inspection. Body mount bolts inside passenger compartment that are close together may have one washer six (6) inches x twelve (12) inches, must have two (2) or more body mount bolts through washer. You may add two (2) additional body mount bolts per side inside passenger compartment. All all-threads MUST have nut on top and bottom and NO welds.
- A minimum of one chain or wire running from the outside (top) of roof down to the cowl or bar down to dash bar of cage on the front window is MANDATORY for safety. Maximum of two. REAR WINDOW BARS ARE NOT ALLOWED!
CAGE AND HALO BARS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- All driver and passenger doors may be reinforced. You should have a six (6)-point cage, cross bars may be ran as follows, one across dash, one behind front seats, and one in rear seat area. You can run four (4) down tubes, two (2) per side. Lower door bars are allowed between down tubes must be 6 inches or more above top of frame. You can have steel plate between cage and front doors. Must be securely fastened to cage. Front bar must be mounted no more than 2” below the bottom of the front window seal and be no more than 4” in diameter. Must have 6” between front bar and firewall. Front bar cannot be attached to or contact firewall at any time. ALL DOWN TUBES MUST BE BEHIND DASH BAR, STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN AND ON FLAT PART OF FRAME. CAN NOT GO TO BODY MOUNT BOXES. NO KICKERS TO REAR OR FRONT HUMPS. Nothing out of drivers’ compartment. You cannot weld anything to front bar protruding toward the distributor protector. No grater blades, metal plates or tubing on exterior of body (driver & passenger doors).
- Halo bars are allowed. Can be attached to door bar. Could be run to the frame but it would be counted as one of your down tubes.
- This is not mandatory but we encourage everyone to put a steel plate between cage and front driver and passenger doors. Thickness of metal is up to driver. Must be securely attached to cage, must be 2” off of floor, this is for protection not reinforcement.
FRAME ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Top frame seams from A-arms forward may have single bead of weld added. Must be single pass no wider than 3/8” wide by 3/8” high, no extra metal may be added. DO NOT REWELD ENGINE CROSS MEMBER SEAMS OR ANY OTHER BRACKETS ATTACHED TO FRAME. NO BAND-AIDS NO CONCRETE!!! DO NOT WELD FACTORY HOLES UP; ALL FACTORY HOLES MUST BE OPEN FOR INSPECTION OF FRAME.
- FULL SIZE CARS ONLY may pitch frame in front. ON THE OUTSIDE OF FRAME ONLY YOU CAN ONLY REWELD THE WELDS THAT YOU HAVE TO CUT TO PITCH THE FRONT. MUST BE SINGLE PASS NO WIDER THAN 3/8” WIDE BY 3/8” HIGH DO NOT REWELD ALL OF THE WELDS ON THE BOXES. NO ADDED METAL. NO EXTRA BRACING OR GUSSETS. DO NOT CUT AND REWELD ON TOP OR BOTTOM.
- FULL SIZE CARS ONLY may have hump plates. Hump plates can be no longer than 22" long: 11" each way from the center of the hump; 1/4" or less thickness; on the outside of the frame only, and must contour to the shape of the frame and have a 3/8” inspection hole drilled through plate and frame for inspection.
- You cannot alter frame in any way other than specified in rules. Do not crease or reshape frame.
- You cannot add or replace engine cross members.
- You may run one (1) wire or chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind rear end.
- You may put a bolt with a stamped flat washer thru frame to hold it together. Only one (1) per wheel opening, must be loose during inspection. DO NOT weld washer. (Pinning of frame)
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- Buick, Olds or Pontiacs MAY NOT fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support.
- If changing front stub, cut 3 inches behind second cross member bolt hole. When replacing, can over lap 2 ½”, able to weld both sides, but no adding extra metal. MUST BE FROM SAME MAKE AND MODEL.
- If restubbing one side of the frame, you are allowed to cut and fit the new frame flush and weld one pass all the way around (butt – fit – weld).
- All trailer hitches MUST be totally removed.
BUMPERS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Any OEM shock canister may be bolted or welded to any car. AMOUNTS OF BOLTS OR WELDS MAY NOT EXCEED TYPICAL STOCK INSTALLATION. Homemade bumper brackets are permitted, NO GUSSETS OR BRACING. Not to extend behind OEM mounting bolt location on frame. May use 2½” max. Round or square tubing. No thicker than ¼ inch. No solid stock may be used. Any OEM stock automobile bumper may be bolted or welded to the shock canister or bumper brackets. You may use two (2) pieces of light chain per shock. Fenders and bumper ends may be trimmed to allow for wheel clearance. Must have inspection holes to see inside bumper.
- Must start with stock OEM bumper. Front bumper may be reinforced inside or outside no wider than the bumper shocks. You may weld outer chrome of bumper to inner skin of bumper. Nothing else can be welded to outer chrome. You cannot alter angle of bumper. Anything coming out of bumper during race will be cause for disqualification. No homemade pointy bumpers.
- May have ¼” X 2” wide strap from bumper to frame or body, two on front and two on rear. Only a 2”X2” area on each end of strap may be welded to bumper and frame or body.
SUSPENSION ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Stiffness of suspension will be left up to the discretion of the driver. A-arms may be bolted or lightly welded to frame with strap no more than ¼” thick and 2” wide, MUST RUN STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. One in front or one behind A-arm. Can be to upper or lower A-arm, but not both. Can only be welded 2” on A-arm and 2” on frame. Only a 2”X2” area on each end of strap may be welded to A-arm and frame. DO NOT WELD ENTIRE A-ARM TO THE FRAME! NO EXCESSIVE METAL ADDED!
- Homemade tie rods and homemade steering shaft are permitted.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted in a stock position. ON A V-BLOCK MOTOR, FRONT SPARK PLUGS MUST BE EVEN OR IN FRONT OF UPPER BALL JOINT; ON IN-LINE MOTORS, NUMBER TWO (2) SPARK PLUG MUST BE EVEN OR IN FRONT OF UPPER BALL JOINT. THIS WILL BE STRICTLY INFORCED!!!
- Chained, welded, or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of officials.
- Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from driver compartment.
- Transmission oil coolers and engines oil coolers are permitted. All trany lines must be wrapped or run through PVC. Inspection personnel must approve all mountings, lines, and fittings.
- Skid plates are allowed. Must be separate oil/transmission plates. No full-length skid plates. No bolting or welding to frame.
- Distributor protectors are allowed. Cannot be any wider than 12” and must not protrude more than 2” from transmission mounting surface on back of engine block. Must be attached to engine or transmission mounting bolts. MUST HAVE A 1” HOLE 2” ABOVE FLOOR/FIREWALL PINCH WELD, CENTER OF DP. MUST HAVE A 1” HOLE 4” BEHIND FLOOR/FIREWALL PINCH WELD, ABOVE TRANSMISSION. DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR OR FIREWALL CAN NOT CONTACT THE CAGE AT ANY TIME.
- You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way.
- Transmission protectors are allowed. MUST HAVE 2” BETWEEN PROTECTOR AND CROSS MEMBER. CAN NOT CONTACT CROSS MEMBER AT ANY TIME IN ANY WAY. PROTECTOR CAN NOT BE WELDED OR BOLTED SOLID TO CROSS MEMBER. MUST FLOAT OVER CROSS MEMBER.
- If original cross member is replaced, you may use 2” max. Round or square tubing or 2” channel. No thicker than ¼ inch.
GAS TANKS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Stock gas tank MUST be removed. A plastic or metal boat tank or homemade tank must be mounted in rear seat area and bolted down with metal straps. Other types of installations will not be allowed. NO GAS CANS with hoses duct taped. A Marine (boat) tank or an official approved homemade tank is mandatory. All tanks MUST be covered with a rubber cover. All tanks MUST have secure cap. All lines and fittings MUST be leak proof and meet approval of Officials. Electric fuel pumps are permitted but MUST have shut-off within reach of driver. NO MORE THAN ten (10) GALLONS OF GAS IN TANK.
REAR END ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Any automobile rear end can be used in any car. TRUCK OR FLOATER REAR ENDS can be used in any car. You cannot transform a coil spring to leaf spring or vice versa. On models originally equipped with leaf springs, stock leaf springs and hangers MUST be used. Leaf packs on all cars may have no more than 8 leaves per pack Must be OEM stock. Homemade spring perches or homemade trailing arm brackets may be welded to rear end. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid. You may tilt rear end by shortening or lengthening rear end control arms. Trailing arms may be reinforced. Rear end housing may be reinforced. No dually wheels allowed.
- Any drive shaft or U joint may be used. Welding of drive shaft is permitted.
- No extra metal added. Any bracket that shows reinforcement to the frame will not be allowed. JUDGES HAVE FINAL DECISION.
- You may have five (5) spring clamps per spring. You pick if you want them in front of or behind axle, or split them between the front and back.
TIRES ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- Only sixteen (16) inch or smaller tires and wheels will be allowed. NO SPLIT RIMS ALLOWED.
- Valve stem protectors, liquid in tires permitted or screws in rims to hold tires in place permitted.
RACING REGULATIONS ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
- All drivers must wear approved helmets, eye protection, long pants, and shirt.
- A driver that receives a black flag for an intentional door hit will be disqualified from all competition for that night. A driver that receives a black flag for sandbagging or two fires will be disqualified, if in heat you may go to consolation. This will be at the judges’ discretion.
- All drivers must attend drivers’ meeting prior to derby.
- All cars must be removed from derby site by 12:00 noon the following day unless otherwise stated at drivers meeting. Failure to do this will result in cars being removed by and becoming property of local salvage operator.
MINI CAR RULES
Same rules as full size derby except as follows:
- Must be powered by four or six cylinder engine.
- Wheelbase must be 108 inches or less. NO EXCEPTIONS!
- No four-wheel drive vehicles.
- MANDATORY! All four/six cylinder cars must have a cage. Four point minimum.
- Stock gas tank MUST be removed. Original tanks CAN NOT BE USED!
- All lines under car must be steel lines or if running rubber lines they must be inside of the car.
- If OEM bumper had no bolts bumper homemade bumper brackets may go six (6) inches from back side of bumper.
- Full frame mini’s CAN NOT REPLACE BODY BOLTS.
- No pipe over struts.
- Passenger cars or station wagons only. No trucks, jeeps, hearses, or limousines. NO CHRYSLER IMPERIALS 73 & OLDER AND NO IMPERIAL SUB-FRAMES. NO 61 – 69 SUICIDE LINCOLNS. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris.
- No sedagons, no crease enhancement, no sheet metal shaping, forming or folding. Body to remain completely stock.
- Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
- NO WELDING… NO WELDING
- Fasten door, hoods, and tail gates in 4 places, 4 strands of #9 wire or chain per seam
- On front of car, two pieces of 3/4 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than four (4) inches O.D. and 1/4 inch thick, all threads MUST be mounted outboard of the radiator.
- Must have one wire or chain from roof to cowl.
- Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken, #9 wire may be substituted. Nobody bolt changing allowed.
- NO welding on frames allowed...
- No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock
- No performance parts or engines allowed stock only. Engines subject to a $500 claimer, so if you wouldn’t sell your engine before the derby for $500, don’t bring it. The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune up, etc... Not complete rebuilds.
- Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded or chained.
- Stock rear ends only – OEM for that car. Rear end gears may be welded
- Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed
- NO engine cradles, slip shafts, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
- You may swap engines, i.e. Chevy in a Ford, but must be a stock engine.
- Four (4) point cage only, dash area, driver’s door and passenger door and seat bar. No other cage components allowed, no down tubes.
- Driver’s door must be padded.
- Gas tank and battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery on the passenger front floor.
- No oil or Trans coolers allowed. O.E. radiator cooling only.
- You may weld on a steel bumper, no welding further than 4 inches from the back of bumper, single pass only.
- Shocks may be collapsed and welded, single pass only
- Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Tires must be DOT approved. No heisters or tractor tread, etc. Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is bumper, engine mount, and cage and rear-end! This build should only take 2 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class and will not run!
Any questions contact:
Troy Rubenacker 618-841-1388